Taking a glance at the Paper Mario board, that specific scenario seems like an incorrect use of subcategories. While an automatic “All” might be nice, it goes against what subcategories are for and in most cases would defeat the purpose of subcategories (which is to create a distinction so runs aren’t compared together).
In most scenarios, a subcategory is used when needing to distinguish between some aspect of a game that creates distinct runs that can’t be compared. Some examples would be: difficulty selection (inherently comparing a run on a Beginner mode and a run on Expert mode doesn’t make sense), when the hardware a game is available on creates a version of the game that is naturally faster than the others, or to distinguish between runs using a major glitch vs. not. In all of those cases, those runs shouldn’t be compared along side one another because there is something in them that is drastically different, but they all achieve the same end goal of the run; hence a subcategory to split them.
Paper Mario looks like they should be utilizing the variable system on the site instead. If all their subcategories are doing is differentiating platform because of load times, but they still want the option to compare them all side by side, they should be using a variable to capture the platform a run was performed on. Then, by default they could set it to show the platform as “Any” and the category would show every run. From there, a user could use the filters to look at just runs for a specific platform like N64 and the LB would filter out all non-N64 runs and adjust the places accordingly.
Maybe the PM community tried this and it didn’t work for some reason, this is just based off how I see their LB set up currently. It looks more like a bad use of subcategories rather than the need for a new feature. Just my two cents.
I think the Twitch app for iOS and Android lets you stream from it (or at least it’s a feature they want to add), but if it exists, it’s geared more towards IRL type streams rather than streaming video game content. I guess you might be able to use it to film your TV and stream it, but it’s probably not worth it.
Aren't Hyperkin consoles like actually horrible? Im pretty sure they are known to be inaccurate and riddled with lag/latency. I would honestly stay away from it no matter what, just from a pure gameplay perspective.
If you’re looking for a timer that runs in Mac and has an autosplitter, I don’t think there is one. You really don’t have any options at that point. You could trying running actual LiveSplit through Wine but I doubt the autosplitter component would work.
[quote=consoleplayercentury] Anyways back to my original questions has anyone ever had a reset button on an original old school console break?[/quote] I literally said that I had this happen on my AV Famicom [quote=Timmiluvs] As to your original question, yes, my AV Famicom had a broken reset button.[/quote] I’m really curious as to what you’re trying to deduce from this thread. You’re adamantly asking for this very specific scenario, but you haven’t really said why. Do you have a reset button that is broken on a console and need help fixing it?
It’s always recommended to pick a game that you enjoy playing as your first game. If you enjoy the game, there’s a better chance that you’ll enjoy the speedrun of it and it’ll help stave off burnout.
And yes, streaming from the Twitch App on the PS4 is allowed. Just make sure to enable the saving of your past broadcasts on Twitch so they don’t disappear right after your end stream (and make sure to highlight them to further preserve them. Export to YouTube too if possible).
The Elgato HD60s gets pretty good remarks from runners who use it, and it's within that price range while being a pretty good card overall. Note that it's USB 3.0, so you'll need a port for that to connect it to, but it's a pretty common recommendation so I would start with that.
[quote=consoleplayercentury]Oldschool original stuff DON'T break......Old stuff don't break, NEW stuff breaks its all junk and poorly made.[/quote] This is such a false statement it's almost comical.
If you think old stuff doesn't break, then you clearly haven't had to swap the rubbers out on a d-pad of an NES or SNES controllers. There are sellers online that make a business off of refurbishing used NES/SNES controllers and replacing worn down d-pad rubbers and buttons. Sure, you may not actually physically break/crack an NES controller unless you hit it with a hammer due to the fact that it's basically a hunk of solid plastic, but old stuff still breaks just as much as new stuff. Control sticks on a PS2 or PS4 controller can still get worn down the same way a d-pad did 30 years ago; the decade in which the console or it's accessories were released has no correlation to how likely any of it is to break after years of use. People tend to think that newer controllers break more easily than older ones, but that's simply because controllers for newer systems have more components and more functions than an NES controller from 40 years ago. With all those extra features, there's more of a chance that something will go wrong. I'm not excusing say faulty 3rd Party stuff, but I've had very few 1st party controllers/accessories break unless I accidentally drop them or something or use them a lot while doing runs.
As to your original question, yes, my AV Famicom had a broken reset button. I had to open the console and clean it and make sure all of my connections were intact before it started working again. It had broken after years of use, and thankfully the fix was just a nice clean to the inside of the console.
What you’re looking for already exists for the most part - it’s the Guides section on every LB. Communities/games can share notes and guides for the run right there for everyone to see.
Private notes or stuff that doesn't make sense under Guides are probably best handled on your own computer or on a site like Pastebin. Allowing users to create random text files and then storing them on the site just doesn’t make sense when there are other options out there that already do it and do it very well (Pastebin, Google Docs, even a notepad app).
Also, as a side note, there’s a thread in this forum dedicated to making feature requests/providing feedback on the site https://www.speedrun.com/the_site/thread/g79jt
Every game has different rules regarding acceptable quality for runs. You need to discus with the moderators of the game(s) in question about what is acceptable proof for them. In most cases though, as long as the video is of decent quality and the TV is clear, then recording off a phone is fine if you don’t have a capture card.
Without more information, it’s hard to say. Usually the input display should be pretty accurate and respond quickly when you press the buttons on the actual controller. So, this leads me to believe that your video has a delay from your capture card. What card do you use?
A lot of USB capture cards will add delay (sometimes a couple seconds worth) on the capture. If that’s the case, then it would look like you’re pressing a button before the video shows the action.
The best you’re gonna get is a Twitter bot that tweets out WRs https://twitter.com/SpeedrunWRs
I mean, if rules for a game don’t specify something (like difficulty to play on) you should probably ask the mods of the game for clarification first and foremost. While you could technically do a run with whatever rules you feel like if the LB doesn’t specify them, it’s just polite to ask the mods first so you don’t send the wrong message by exploiting vague rules.
Maybe not a bot per-se (or at least not a very good one), but the thread/post is pointless and could probably be cleaned up https://www.speedrun.com/luizNOB/allposts
If you’re getting 67.0Mbps upload, that is insane and you should have no problem getting a high quality stream (that’s like 12x more than what you need for a 1080p60fps stream).
If it’s 0.67Mpbs, that sounds more believable for having issues at 720p since that’s an upload speed that is not very good and that’s a case where you should probably have to drop your quality settings/bitrate.
So, if your upload is truly 67.0Mbps, then I have no idea why your stream would be having issues, especially when you’re streaming direct from the PS4 app, because that is more than enough upload do stream in whatever quality you want.
When you said you got 67 upload, are you saying you got a 67.0 upload speed or a 0.67 upload speed?