1:20 Gunsai TA guide (works for any map )


Below is the guide to getting a 1:20 time (assuming that's the fastest time possible, considering most of the OG pros had times in the 1:20.6 - 1:21.0 range)




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9PmZnznenM

*Possible correction at 3:24 in the tutorial, I believe it's faster to keep inside of the corner, as you can see, Kesari goes wide, in my experience, his technique is slower, it can be up to 2 car length's  (~0.2-0.4s) slower if done worse I think.





Video below is one of Kesari's fastest times, 1:20.867, you can use this video to gauge what a fast run actually looks like.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCSEgBvy8yA



Advanced techniques

Here I will share 2 advanced techniques that people don't use (actually, the current top 2 run used one of them, but not effectively).



# Exploiting collision physics

FRL has interesting physics, let's say you crash into a wall, you might be able  "buffer" your car sideways so you don't have to waste time/speed rotating it, or, go into a corner really fast without braking, instead sinking all of your speed into a guardrail, so you save a bit of time.



I tried finding uses for it on Gunsai, however I can't exactly find any use for it that's actually faster than just driving normally.



One example of this being faster is, on the mod map Suzuka, there's a 1 way wall at the end of the last straight, and if you go through it, you get booted out of it, depending on how you approached it, you could get up to maybe a 15km/h speed boost, this is a 1 way wall though, there are no 1 way walls in the Gunsai run however (unless you include the bridge's guardrails)





# Double braking

FRL physics allow you to hold brake and handbrake at same time, which practically halves your braking distance, this sounds good on paper, but it's hard to accomplish without spinning. In fact, it likely wouldn't halve your braking distance in an actual run, because you would probably have to tap the handbrake while braking to make sure you don't spin, which would waste a bit of that potential.



A good way to use this might be with Slider controls, since you can center your car easily, whereas on tilt, even just steering 1 degree off-center, you're screwed.



I'm planning on practicing this technique, playing around with it until I understand how it works, perhaps it won't useful.

How game physics work

# Horsepower (Higher = Better)

Horsepower has diminishing returns, the more HP you get, the less efficient each extra added HP becomes. Below is a drawing I made to show you roughly how it works.

![](/static/blob/oeow6v0z.png)

In any case, more HP is always better, it is one of the top 2 most important things to look out for in terms of tuning your car.



**Pros**:

Quicker acceleration

Higher top speed



**Cons**:

More tyre wear (negligible imo)










# Grip (Higher = Better)

Grip is the second most important thing right next to horsepower, I believe it works almost linearly, so if you had let's say 100000 grip, you would fly across the map and be potentially be unable to drift at all (haven't tested this, just hypothesizing).



**Pros**:

Quicker acceleration

Higher top speed

Better off-road handling (i mean specifically on corners where you take your outside wheels onto the grass, you can steer more aggressively on outside grass with higher grip)









# Weight (Lower = Better)

Weight is the least important numbered characteristic, I'm not exactly sure how it works. If you try a low weight like 1kg, you will have insane acceleration, insane braking, and a higher top speed, so I apply this logic. For some reason though, it seems that in the legit space of things (lowest possible weight with maxed J engine being 1020kg, using Miata), there is a different way these things work. I was racing against a maxed out AE86 which is 30kg heavier I believe, yet it had the same top speed, same acceleration, but when I was racing an S13, I pulled away minimally, beating the S13 by 1km/h (200kg weight difference I believe), and the Chaser, well that's another 200kg added, also slightly slower logically (though I believe it can be around 10km/h slower instead).



Not sure if the drawing below is actually an accurate representation, just how I think it works, has some weird step in performance.





![](/static/blob/kzw12kqn.png)



**Pros**:

Quicker acceleration

Better braking

Higher top speed









# Dampers (Lower height = Better)

Dampers work in a way, where if you lower your height, you get faster acceleration, and since well, lower weight increases accel, lower weight also allows the car to brake faster, so IMO, dampers also improve braking (following weight logic). The damper difference is hard to spot unless you specifically use high ride height, just try seeing the difference between low and high suspension compared to your Gunsai ghost, you will see that you accelerate noticeably slower with raised height, however, if you try this with normal suspension, it might not be noticeable at all, so I drew the chart below.





![](/static/blob/1n54y5pe.png)



**Pros**:

Better acceleration

Possibly better braking



**Potential cons**:

Might bottom out, bumpy roads might be worse (0 testing done here, not sure)



Top speed doesn't actually seem to be affected, but acceleration is definitely affected.



*Speed in the chart should be replaced with Acceleration, speed isn't affected it seems.


Optimal tuning guide

# The Car

I personally use the Miata because it has the lightest chassis and good effective track width (small car).

The Lada is slightly heavier, but it may have better effective track width than the Miata resulting in possibly faster times. Another thing the Lada has, is a solid rear axle, meaning when you lower the suspension, the rear camber doesn't change, resulting in more margin for error on corner exits for example where you don't want to slip. I'm not entirely sure camber changes the physical properties of the car in any way however.



# The Engine

I use the J engine, the REW (RX-7 FD) engine is also a decent choice, but I believe the J engine wins ever so slightly due to it's 2hp power advantage.



# The Tyres

I use the Pergea 08RS', they have the highest grip value, resulting in better acceleration, better braking, better off-road grip (good for not slipping on grass) and higher top speed.



# The Dampers

I use the orange adjustable dampers (6 inch drop), not the BC Racing ones that I see people using (5.5 inch drop only), because lower ride height means better acceleration, haven't tested braking, but I'm assuming it also has better braking. The red adjustable dampers are equally as good, but I pick the orange ones because they have have lower travel (3 inch raise, whereas red dampers have 4 inch raise).



# The Sideskirts

I never ever use sideskirts because they raise the height of the car slightly, which might handicap the acceleration even just a tiny bit, haven't tested this, but just to be safe I won't use sideskirts.



# The Wheels

I use the skinniest and smallest wheels possible, along with max stretching, because from some testing I did, I'm pretty sure wheel size actually affects your track width, and in FRL, I believe lower track width is better, because you have slightly more room on the track.



# Myths

RPM doesn't change anything, I've seen people being confident in the alleged fact that a 617hp 13B engine is faster than a J engine just because it revs higher, in FRL, RPM doesn't change anything, I used a memory editor to test super low RPMs (such as 100 RPM limit, then 20K RPM limit), no difference at all in terms of acceleration or speed.



Used Semi Slick tyres (USS) are not faster than Pergea 08RS', I assume this came from the fact that USS tyres have a slick texture on them, and one guy got his PB with them. The texture doesn't change anything, all that matters is the grip value, and they have lower grip, resulting in worse braking, acceleration, speed and off-road handling.

The Real Gunsai Leaderboards

# OUTDATED AND INACCURATE, CHECK frlmods FOR A MORE OFFICIAL LEADERBOARD, OR Unknown Project's (UP) DISCORD SERVER TO SEE THE FASTEST GUNSAI RUNNERS OF ALL TIME



# The real Gunsai Full leaderboard

1. pristine **[1:20.604]**
2. kluo 1:20.647
3. kesari 1:20.729
4. kaiga 1:20.734
5. shu 1:20.748
6. jony 1:20.791
7. redac7ed 1:20.796
8. sins ~1:20.900
9. shado 1:20.984
10. ultra 1:21.144
11. ichimoku373 1:21.206

I don't know every time, mostly gathered these times through some youtube comments and instagram accounts. Someone might've even beaten Pristine, but I haven't yet found a time faster than 1:20.604.

## The real Gunsai Short leaderboard

1. jony **[17.737]**

I couldn't find any other Gunsai Short times, but considering jony is close to the gunsai full WR, I feel good enough to put him at the top. I might've remembered seeing a 17.68x run too, but that might be a false memory so I wont trust it much.

Name	Autor
1:20 Gunsai TA guide (works for any map )	fcccccccc 4 months ago
Advanced techniques	fcccccccc 4 months ago
How game physics work	fcccccccc 4 months ago
Optimal tuning guide	fcccccccc 4 months ago
The Real Gunsai Leaderboards	fcccccccc 4 months ago