According to the wiki, the Slasher Knife is considered a quest item even though your inventory is inaccessible. So even if you were able to get a container on the simulation pod and look at your Tranquility Lane inventory, you can't transfer the knife. Never tested it myself, but for sure, if it's obtainable by any glitch, it needs to be included.

Ah, yeah that makes sense. I'll just follow what any% and all quests does and consider talking to Autumn and putting in the console numbers as completing both of the final quests. In a run that I may do eventually, which would be the current All Quests/Bobbleheads/DLC plus unique weapons, doing both properly would make sense because it's tracked by the game.

And yes, my run includes both of Autumn's unique weapons. I'm getting all weapons that (at least on the wiki) are considered unique and obtainable even if unintentionally so. Another example of this would be in the Superhuman Gambit where getting both Protectron's Gaze and Ant's Sting is likely not intended to be possible, but is. The only unobtainable unique weapon I believe is just the Slasher Knife from Tranquility Lane.

I don't believe that Dad has any unique weapons and just uses a regular .32 pistol. The final unique weapon count is then 38.

Ah I see, yes that's pretty helpful. So the skip that you discovered allows the game to recognize that Take It Back! has been properly completed, and it has been done in All Quests? Does this mean that All Quests runs should now perform this glitch to properly complete that quest? Because doing the glitch as opposed skipping Liberty Prime normally is slower.

I'm just confused as to if it "matters" if the quests are properly completed in a run that doesn't do Broken Steel.

Hey, I've been trying to route a "All Quests, Bobbleheads and Unique Weapons" run for a little while (this is more for a personal challenge than a legit run of sorts). I noticed when looking through runs a difference in how the final story quest Take It Back! is handled.

In All Quests, the Liberty Prime sequence isn't started and you go straight to the purifier to activate the credits. In any category with Broken Steel required though, Liberty Prime is followed to complete the quest properly. If the All Quests route is followed with Broken Steel installed, neither Take It Back! nor Project Impurity are completed and Broken Steel quests do not start.

I was wondering if there was a reason for not completing the final quest the "proper" way in All Quests. Technically speaking, neither of those two quests are completed as far as the game is concerned. Is it just for speed, getting through that part as fast as possible? I understand since Broken Steel isn't installed, you wouldn't see the game confirming that those quests are indeed completed. Or maybe I'm thinking about it too much.

This is kinda also to help me in defining my own run I mentioned above. Thanks for any input you guys have!

I realize that all runs of Fallout 3 are done on PC for obvious reasons, but I want to put some of the tricks into a casual playthrough. Most notably, speed cripple.

I'm wondering if anyone has performed the glitch successfully on 360 or PS3. I've been trying for a couple of hours now, using what guides there are here, but I haven't gotten anything to stick. I can usually get my character to limp on the load, but there is no change in speed. I've heard that if I die while trying this I have to restart the game entirely: is that true?

I may also just be trying the glitch wrong. Has anyone gotten the glitch on a hard load? Perhaps the glitch is PC-exclusive? Any other suggestions?

Thanks for the help!

Some additional notes on the nature of the solar sensor.

Given that it's just a light sensor, there are some unique properties to it. The sensor will detect certain wavelengths of light (like different colors or UV light) more readily than others. It is assumed that because the game was meant to be played under a real sun, the sensor will function best under light that has a similar distribution of color concentration as the sun. A common way of measuring this is using the CRI or color rendering index that essentially gives a percentage of how close a light is to the color distribution of the sun.

For example, in my experience with the solar sensor, I have been able to use a powerful 105 Watt fluorescent placed directly on the sensor to yield 4 to 5 bars. When I used a small panel of LED lights, their intensity was much greater than the bulb. However, even placing the LEDs directly on the sensor yielded no bars. This is likely due to the CRI of LEDs being low, at about 70.

Black lights, from my understanding, emit more high frequency light, like UV rays. This means that they may more accurately match the light of the sun. But, this would also depend on the composition of the light. Think about it: if a black light is constructed by putting a normal bulb emitting white light into a container that has a black/violet filter on it, what's actually occurring? No new light is being produced, its just certain wavelengths being blocked. This suggests that a black light made under these conditions should be no better than a normal light bulb at having the sensor detect light than any normal bulb. Some black lights, however, are made specifically for producing that high frequency light, which may cause the sensor to detect more light.

tl;dr You can make the solar sensor detect light even without a black light, but the light bulb must be very strong, direct and somewhat match the light composition of the sun.

Anyways...

As DrHell mentioned above, if you're opting for the non-emulator route, you do have to monitor the light usage closely. Heat is a big concern, as you don't want your skin to burn or the game to suffer damage by melting. In Boktai 2 in particular, too much sun will ruin perishable items, so sun all the time isn't necessarily the best. However, it is useful in the sense that it passively fills up the Solar Station and if you're outside, you can move around while also absorbing more energy.

Also, according to Wikipedia, the relatively low frequency UV rays that are put out by black lights are not enough to cause significantly increased risk of cancer, so as long as you're careful and play in moderation, you should be fine!

In reference to what system you should play on, it's really all preferential. I prefer to use the Game Boy Player because it works well for my light setup and I prefer using the GameCube controller. It also means that I am not directly exposing myself to the light, as I can isolate the GameCube and light system with the controller leading out of the containment unit. But again, as DrHell mentioned, the EU version is not compatible with the Game Boy Player, however NTSC and JP are.

It would seem that emulator is inherently better, just because you can directly control the solar sensor. The most place you would save time from a difference in sun bars would be any time you need to do a solar charge or during purifications. In both of these cases, 10 bars will work much better than 4.

These are just some things to consider when running this game!