Cash Glitch

Step 1: by buying the next available car and immediately buying the cheapest car afterwards you convert all your money into cash.

Step 2: by starting the race and leaving it (immediately because you don't want to waste time) straight to the game menu you make the game think it's a new game session. (you have now executed the cashglitch)

Step 3: ??????????

Step 4: Profit.

Explanation as to why this happens: The game stores the variable for your cash after you are exiting the course into the main menu. At the same time, though exit the game causes the game to change its state to a new game session and allows you to play the last car you have unlocked since your last gaming session. (You unlock a car by having enough money, which is why this glitch lets you even skip cars later within one round) Now that the game thinks it's the next gaming session, you get to choose all the cars BUT the cash-variable is still active until the race you start is over. Therefore, you get the prize money for winning, the cash of the difference of the more expensive and one of the cheapest cars in the game. (there are two 18.000$ cars) This is why the exploit gets more extreme as the run goes on. On top of that, of course you get the new the car itself. This glitch saves between 6-8 Minutes.

If you want to run this game....

You should:

Step 1: Grind on N64. Start on Emu. Starting on N64 would be the best of course, but the point is, it is heavily encouraged to play on n64, but emu runners are more than welcome. (and needed!) Theres nothing wrong with just downloading an emu and seeing what time you can get. But An Emu WR would not be as desirable and respected as the N64 record for obvious reasons. Also Emu is actually slower in this game in every skip category because its nearly impossible to clip through walls. If you become really good at the game you can still decide to switch to N64. (switching shouldnt be a big problem, usually experienced players adapt pretty quickly to different controllers/versions)

Step 2: the most important thing to do is HAVE FUN! and don't be scared to give it a shot even if you don't feel confident about your ability at first, you will get really good the more time you spend practicing!

If you plan to play on Emu, you can skip the rest.

Step 3: Set your Resolution settings in Main Menu -> Setup -> Hi-Res: Full.
This makes clipping 100 times easier, but also makes your car wobble really fast if you reach top speed, especially faster cars. It also makes the game lag, but i'm sure the amount it loses from the lag (if any) is absolutely completely neglectable to the time it saves.

Step 4: Get a capture device. One of the best and cheapest capture devices for n64 is the GV-USB2. 
If you do intend to get it You will also need:
- 3 Y-cinch splitters
- 2 male to male cinch cables (each one red, white, yellow)

Plug the N64 cinch cables into the single ends of the Y-splitters, plug the first male to male splitter in your TV and one of the other holes of the y-splitter. (on the end where there are two holes) Then, plug the 2nd male to male cinch cables into the last y-splitter holes and into the from the gv usb2 delivered female cinch plugs. Make sure all the colors match. Finally plug in the GV-USB2 into your computer and its all done. This costs only like 25-40$ depending on where you live. And the quality is almost top notch for N64.


and maybe

Step 5: Get a 3rd party controller. (if youre very serious about running this) I would not necessarely recommend using an original n64 controller as this game seems to wear out control sticks somewhat quickly high level gameplay session... So maybe get a hori or a raphnet (every 3rd party controller is allowed as long as you don't have a turbo button on them) The wear is not as bad as you may think tho, im sure playing this for 2-3 months even daily wouldnt do that much damage. But after a year or two of grinding like a maniac you may regret not having used a 3rd party controller from the beginning. What i think causes the wear is doing large curves and "tapping" the control stick to the right because thats the only way to not lose any speed and still get a clean curve. I guess even a bad 3rd party controller might work out just fine for this game, since there are no precise angles throughout the game you have to hold. 

This is actually one of the easiest games ever to get into. Play the game: done youre already a speedrunner. Just time it and submit your run cause why not.

IL Run Guide

This guide explains the basics of IL runs. IL stands for Individual Levels. Basically beating the levels or just a lap at a time and optimizing the hell out of those. There are a total of 56 Possible IL records to attain (mirrored maps are ignored and submission will be ignored since there are no mirrored categories)

First of all: When you finish and get your record, you immideately reset the console or your savefile will be messed up. Getting a record is unfortunately (or fortunately) not something you do all day every day anyways so i dont think anyone will care about that. It's the only known way to keep going after getting a 3lap record tho since you have no control over any menus after finishing the race and when the cutscene is done playing you will have a placement in the current map and cannot play it again.

In order to play the map you want you are going to have to play the game to that point. (getting to grind your level wont be too much of a hassle, once youre there you can keep going for as long as you want.)

You can abuse the hell out of cashglitch so that you can always buy enough nitrous. you are allowed to use 100 nitrous in every race since you can do that in any% aswell.

The fact that you can reset the stage over and over will make for some really great IL runs and good ways to practice your skills. Yes, you do sometimes have to play the game to a certain point to do ILs of the level you need, but once you're there you can theoretically grind that one stage for weeks very efficiently.

known Skips and Skip ideas

Useful Skips: (listed from hardest to easiest)

- Frigid Peak Lap skip. (harder) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUatkxORFyY

- Swampy Depot Half Lap skip. - https://youtu.be/NafXh-SkO-Q?t=12

- Sandy Beaches Half Lap skip. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q89e4TOb3MU

- Frigid Peak Lap skip. (easier) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CL7bPiKGgLU

- Frigid Peak Tunnel skip. - https://clips.twitch.tv/HyperNastyGoldfishOSsloth

Potential ideas for more skips:
In fertile canyon you can skip into the wall next to the dinosaur, i feel like there is a decent chance you can skip the last big turn of the map so maybe about 1/3rd of it. (would save about 7 seconds per lap, 24 laps in any% = 2:48 mins, 30 laps in 100%= 3:30 mins)

If you managed to clip into one of the walls in the 2nd Tunnel of Downtown you could potentially skip the rest of the lap, saving about 12 seconds for every lap. (any% has 15 laps, 100% has 18, so potentially 3 mins in any%, 3:36 mins in 100%)

Other than that maybe at the start of Sandy Beaches it is possible to skip more of the lap than currently known. (you may be able to clip right at the start somwhere, or maybe behind the waterfal to get behind the finish line)

Note: It's looking bleak for Spacetruckin'. It seems to not have any skips except for one small jump you can do at the end by precisely using a nitrous. There seemed a promising part at the large curve of the map which goes around that karge meteor, where you can simply clip about halfway into the curve on the right side wall, going perfectly towards were you would want to go to skip a large turn right after. The Invisible wall for setting you back is very big and it would always set me back when trying multiple positions speeds and angles when clipping. I was theorizing you may be able to jump over the map if you'd clip earlier on that large curve, but i didnt even come close and ontop of that i theorize that the middle of the map is filled with invisible walls that set you back.

Note 2: Its possible to clip into The wall in Downtown on the left side before the S curve at the entrace of the 2nd tunnel.

Note 3: In Swampy Depot if you land on the left side after the 1st nitrous field, you can drive all the way to the end of that highered platform. The dead end is actually no dead end, it is not solid at all. You can potentially nitrous through the hole and land on the other side of the map, but this trick is obsoleted as it is incredibly random slower and much harder than the new strat.

Micellenious information

Emulator saves about 70 seconds over N64. I got these numbers by making a secreenshot of all of the finish screens of my emu run and an n64 run on speedrun.com. I added up all lap times, compared the ingame times and found that 1:10 were saved out of nowhere. Menu time differences have been mostly insignificant but i still ruled it out seperately. If somebody would repeat this process in order double check that'd be fine to me, but i assume that 70 seconds is not more than 5 seconds off of the real amount of time Emu saves. This should be the same for all any% categories, i would guess in 100% it saves about 1:25, considering the last season is the longest.

Movement knowlege base

1. Magnet tires: If you fully steer to one direction and let go of the gas, after reaching maximum steering the game seems to hate to lift you off the ground and gives you magnet tires instead, this can be very useful as you have no control in the air and cannot accelerate. it is not known so far wether press B to break makes it more or less likely to work, snaking might work aswell but seems very difficult. It may also be a frame perfect thing or only to a certain degree, so far it seems very random/difficult to abuse.

2. Faster cars have more armor than slower cars and therefore don't blow up as easly.

3. Currently there are 2 cars known to clip through walls, the 2nd last and the mclaren

4. Most people don't actually realize there are seasons in the game. (no not the season the game is talking about all the time) but actual ice, rain and summer landscapes, not just the mirror variations, some say even some of the seasoned players dont know. Fertile Canyon on ice (season 6, race 6) is probably the hardest stage in the game when driven normally. Rain worsens your grip slightly, on summer your car is super grippy. (intuitive i know) This is hoewever extremely important to know in a speedrun as the differences are huge. Ontop of that, stages should be practiced in seperate seasons. (or just the ice seasons cause they are awful)


miscellaneous: 
- nitrous seem to give you extra air distance
- It is possible to consistently skip the 2nd last curve in space trucking using nitrous as close as possible to liftoff and positioning yourself to the very right of the road.
- using a nitrous immideately before lifting off seems to give the most extra air distance. Im not sure how each frame compares to the other tho, i assume a "last frame" nitro (on the road) is the best for distance.

New improvement for all categories

ever since people ran this game, everyone has just done the races in order. However, this is not the fastest way to do it and just a bad habit. The ideal order to do the races in any% is:
Season 1: Race 2, race 1, race 3 (this saves 10-15 seconds)
Season 2: Race 3, race 2, race 1, race 4 (20 ish secs just by default.)
However, there is a skip that is RTA Viable you can perform with the Viper. This would save you a whopping -- 80-90 -- seconds! just in that race. This will make Any% more reset heavy. Which means its just a brutal category all around now. Until now, there weren't many resets in early game except for some occasional Season 1 race 2 resets if you missed the cash patch or race 4 season 2 missing the porsche skips. So except for season 1, every single season is gonna be an absolute nightmare for even experienced players. The good news is, almost every reset will now naturally happen much earlier. one example for this is that missing the cashpatch in race 2 s1 now is the first race of the game instead of the 2nd. But much more importantly: pushing race 5 in the later seasons into the 2nd position instead means a big improvement when resetting in this game! Since this is at the start of the run and except for everything until season 2 last race was pretty easy compared to the rest of the run, this makes the run a lot more balanced, since now season 2 is gonna be significantly harder.

I can't tell for sure, how much this saves overall, but its probably around 


Season 3 race 1, race 4 and the rest normally, since you want to get race 4 out the way as you may have to reset on it if you mess up the skips. Even though the skips aren't hard, messing them up loses a ton of time so putting race 4 early here does make sence.
season 4 race 1, race 5 and then the rest, since those are the most run ruining stages. If you want, you can do race 4 after race 5 but i dont think its normally worth it. If youre on a bad run, you could do race 4 right after race 5 here and if you mess up one skip you could let that mistake decide for you to reset that run.
season 5 race 1, race 5 and the rest
season 6 race 1, race 5, and the rest. Since race 4 is pretty easy but loses a lot of time if you mess it up, i'd say you shouldnt choke on that if youre a good player, so no need to put it earlier.

Technical information about clipping through walls

Before i start:
- Turn on lowest res possible for runs WITHOUT SKIPS
- Turn on highest res possible for runs WITH SKIPS
1. the only way to clip through walls reliably requires making the game lag. the Collision becomes very glitchy on max res. In order to activate max res, go into setup into the main menu and press the low or mid res option until you see high res. The more lag there is, the easier it is to clip,

How to create lag:
- Nitrous increase lag except when in front view
- Front view with back mirror has more lag, in this case nitrous also increases lag ( keep in mind that the game has to create an extra camera showing you many polygons behind you which takes quite a bit performance. 
- Having the view outside may also be more laggy than just front view because the car model has to be loaded.
- Driving with the mirror out wastes time due to some lag frames i assume.

I think inside view with mirror and nitrous seems to be the most consistent way to clip.


2. Higher speed makes clipping easier as well.

- Particularly at full speed especially the McLaren, max res. and going straight forward the car starts wiggling very strongly, this wiggling seems to make clipping out of bounds easier.

3. The ideal way to clip is to be parrarell to the wall and slightly nudging your stick into the wall's direction so the car slightly touches the wall for the longest time possible, the longer you rub the wall with the car the more likely you are to clip as well. Another viable strat is to just line up the car and not touch the control stick at all, letting the car rub the wall by itself.

Transfer Glitch

By buying upgrades or nitrous for the cheapest car while Performing cashglitch, you can transfer them onto the new car that cashglitch gets you. This works, because they game attempts to store your upgrades when turning off the console, but can be exploited by some smart menuing. Cashglitch was found many years ago and implemented into cals' first run submitted back in 2019. But the transfer glitch was completely unknown afaik and i first performed and used it in late 2020. The original post of me finding it can be found here for some additional information: https://www.speedrun.com/top_gear_overdrive/thread/eadhv

I initially called it upgrade glitch but transfer glitch makes more sence since it transfers upgrades and nitrous, nitrous are not an ugrade technically as they're one time use. I've already tried abusing this to get the F40 earlier by buying a ton of nitrous after several races and transfering them but afaik this doesnt happen to save time under any cricumstances in any%.

Upgrading Buying nitrous and choosing your cars.

General things to keep in mind:
- Dont lose time in menus as those are by far the worst timelosses in almost every case
- Nitrous will cost you a lot of net worth if used and you get 3 free nitrous every time a new race starts and you happen to have 0. since 3 free nitrous save up to 10 seconds depending on the situation, it'ss rarely worth saving them to increase net worth.
- Upgrades cost you half their value in net worth
- Ideally, get the Jeep before race 3, as it saves 10-15 seconds. This isn't worth resetting over, unless your run is fairly optimized as long as you can handle the swamp with your nitrous reasonable well.
- Upgrade your car enough to always get 1st place.
- This is less prominent, but acceleration is always the most important. Top speed becomes more important midgame and handling becomes more important lategame.

Choosing cars:
Skip the Hummer cause it sucks and is not worth buying at all since you lose more money and time inside the menu alone in any category. You can save time in rare situations, but this is only if you mess up with the viper and dont happen to have enough nitrous in the swampy areas. Nitrous almost completely negates the swampy properties, which is one of the reasons why the hummer is not worth buying in any category.

Get the F40/Mclaren ASAP. for its relative price its easly the most OP car. Relatively speaking, the Dodge viper is the 2nd best car, which makes the hummer even more useless, since fully upgrading the dodge beats it in effectively every way.

In any% there are only 2 things to keep in mind when upgrading cars:
On race 2, you buy one upgrade point in accel, on race 3, ideally you want to buy 2 handling and as many of the other upgrades as possible. It's not recommended to buy the 5th upgrade as each upgrade costs exponentially more money. Hoewever this difference is miniscule and doesnt really matter thanks to transfer glitch. so 2 handling 4 accel, 3 top speed would be good, 3 handling 4 accel and 3 top speed would be better and 2 handling 4 accel, 4 top speed would be even better. and of course if you can afford it 3/4/4

For No menu Glitch/Glitchless runs:
It is situational.
The reason why this is situational is because even very small mistakes in this game can change the amount of money you have, therefore what upgrades you buy and upgrades you buy can spiral into more unique scenarios. Each placement that is not 1st also heavily impacts the situation at hand. I will in detail explain the ideal scenario for every situation on hand. However, mostly the differences are very small and in any% they dont matter at all. As long as you can afford the F40/Mclaren ASAP and upgrade somewhat reasonably you should do well.

Things to keep in mind: The cars where acceleration is most important are:
1st: Hummer (as of now, this car is not recommended at all in speedruns anyway)
2nd: Eclipse (2nd car)
3rd: Camero (4th car)
4th: Porsche
5th: Viper (5th car)

Most OP cars:
1st: Mclaren 2nd: F40 3rd: Viper 4th: Porsche

Its only worth uprading, if it doesnt cause you to get the F40/Mclaren at a later stage. Every upgrade until the 3rd upgrade is in the vast majority of cases worth it.
Weigh your upgrades like this:
Always have more -or the same- accel than top speed. Always try have more top speed than handling. Other than that:
If you can get 2 top speeds instead of 1 accel. get top speed. If you can get 2 handling instead of 1 top speed, get 2 handling

Generally acceleration is the most valuable, followed by Top speed, followed by Handling. For less experienced players, handling in some cases can be better than topspeed however.
- each upgrade costs exponentially more, so upgrading the 5th (max upgrade) of the porsche sometimes isn't worth it, if it causes you to get the ferrari later. upgrade every car fully, unless it causes you to get the F40/Mclaren one track later or you an afford the next car. In some rare cases saving upgrades on the Camaro may make sence, since it could possibly cause you to get the F40/Mclaren a round earlier.

TLDR; in any% it pretty much doesnt matter
In Glitchless or no menu glitch categories, get F40/Mclaren ASAP, prioritize acceleration but keep upgrades evenly distributed due to exponential cost, decide depending on your situation wether the 4th upgrade will push back the next car and the F40/Mclaren later down the line since upgrades bring down your net worth by half their value. (5000$ upgrade = -2500$ net worth). in every case, buying the next car is worth it, as long as you can afford 1 point in acceleration. the only situation where it wouldnt be worth buying the next car is if you can buy the porsche and not upgrade it at all. Even so, the difference is miniscule, if you use your nitrous wisely and dont do mistakes.

If you struggle with it, In No menu glitch/glitchless runs it may be worth buying a nitrous for when you skip the hummer in swampy depot. In any% buying 2-7 nitrous for your first downtown race makes sence because it makes clipping into the wall easier. In any% buying one or two nitrous could make sence for swampy depot if you struggle. Other than that, try to buy as many nitrous in one swipe as possible in any% to have avoid navigating in the menu as much as you can as that can unnesserarely lose a second or so.

Nome	Autore
Cash Glitch	MrSpeedrun 4 years ago
If you want to run this game....	MrSpeedrun 4 years ago
IL Run Guide	MrSpeedrun 4 years ago
known Skips and Skip ideas	MrSpeedrun 4 years ago
Micellenious information	MrSpeedrun 4 years ago
Movement knowlege base	MrSpeedrun 4 years ago
New improvement for all categories	MrSpeedrun 2 years ago
Technical information about clipping through walls	MrSpeedrun 2 years ago
Transfer Glitch	MrSpeedrun 2 years ago
Upgrading Buying nitrous and choosing your cars.	MrSpeedrun 2 years ago