150cc Item Box Sniping (advanced items strategy)

# Item Box Sniping Guide (150cc)

At the start of most races, the human player will hit an item box in first place, and the fastest CPU will hit an item box just afterwards. This scenario leads to a ~40% chance of being unavoidably hit by a red shell. However, this possibility can often be countered by taking the box that the fastest CPU's line usually goes through, eliminating the chance of a red shell. For tracks where this is reliable, I will list the item box you should hit. “-“ means I don't know of a consistent strategy for the track.

Tracks with * have additional notes after the main section. The information is formatted as code just so each line isn't spaced inordinately far apart.

Thanks to LiaraLili for helping with the original research!

### **NITRO TRACKS**

```
MKS: First track of any base game run, get a 2nd place box
WP:  Bad startup for 2nd place box
SSC: 2nd from right
TR:  2nd from left (can vary)
```

```
MC:  2nd from left (can vary)
TH:  - (can angle right off the boost ramp to get two boxes to be safe)
*TM: Right path, left box
SGF: Left box
```

```
SA:  4th from left
*DS: 3rd from left
ED:  Left box
MW:  2nd from right
```

```
CC:  - (boxes on the right are most likely; just do the superbounce)
BDD: Right box
BC:  Middle and 2nd from left (hit both)
RR:  Rightmost or 2nd from right (50/50)
```

### **RETRO TRACKS**

```
*rMMM: Left box
*rMC:  -
rCCB:  Right box
rTT:   First two boxes
```

```
rDDD: 2nd from right
rDP3: Two boxes first set
rRRy: Left box (can vary)
rDKJ: Rightmost or 2nd from right (can vary)
```

```
rWS: Left box
rSL: 2nd from right (can vary)
rMP: Right box
rYV: 3rd from left (can vary)
```

```
rTTC: First two boxes (skipping the one on the clock hand is risky, but sometimes the pendulums can break reds thrown at you)
rPPS: First two boxes
rGV:  2nd from right or middle (50/50, can watch CPU to try to predict)
rRR:  3rd from right
```

### **BONUS TRACKS**

```
dYC:  Right box
dEA:  - (completely random)
dDD:  Middle box (double item)
*dMC: -
```

```
*dWGM: Both middle and 2nd from right
dRR:   Right box
*dIIO: Green (left) track, middle box
dHC:   Left box
```

```
*dBP: First two boxes
dCL:  Left box
dWW:  - (very random)
dAC:  Middle and 2nd from left (hit both)
```

```
dNBC: Right or 2nd from right (50/50, far right is the faster line)
dRiR: 2nd from right
dSBS: Bad startup boost for 2nd place box (safe)
dBB:  Two leftmost boxes (hit both)
```

### **Additional Notes**

```
TM: the CPU has a roughly 50/50 chance of going left or right at the start, so this isn't a guarantee.
```

```
DS: with the increased box respawn rate from version 2.1 onwards, the CPU is usually so slow the box has respawned by the time they get to it :(
```

```
rMMM: sometimes the fastest CPU zooms and passes you before the first set. In this case, aim for the 2nd box from the left to get a 2nd place box
```

```
rMC: like DS but worse. No matter what you hit, the box will always respawn before the CPU gets to it
```

```
dMC: box will respawn
```

```
dWGM: any of the middle three boxes seem about equally likely, and unfortunately you can only hit two
```

```
dIIO: same deal as TM - the CPU seems about 50/50 to take either path, so this isn't very consistent
```

```
dBP: moving pairs of item boxes are unlinked, so if you hit both you'll get two items
```

I hope this helps items feel a tiny bit more consistent!

—Pianist15

*9/2/23 update: reformatted to comply with the site update; condensed all relevant 150cc information to here. I'm planning to add DLC tracks eventually, although it will probably be a while.*

200cc Item Box Sniping (advanced items strategy)

# Item Box Sniping Guide (200cc)

At the start of most races, the human player will hit an item box in first place, and the fastest CPU will hit an item box just afterwards. This scenario leads to a ~40% chance of being unavoidably hit by a red shell. However, this possibility can often be countered by taking the box that the fastest CPU's line usually goes through, eliminating the chance of a red shell. For tracks where this is reliable, I will list the item box you should hit. “-“ means I don't know of a consistent strategy for the track.

On 200cc, good drivers will often be able to outrun red shells to the second box. However, I recognize that this can be difficult for newer players. Any backup strat not needed by advanced players will be denoted by _ preceding the track abbreviation, and reasoning for why this strat is ideally not necessary will be given after the main section. Tracks preceded by * also have additional notes after the main section. The information is formatted as code just so each line isn't spaced inordinately far apart.

### **NITRO TRACKS**

```
MKS: 2nd from right (if you start your run on this track, get a 2nd place box)
*WP: 2nd from left
SSC: 2nd from right
_TR: Middle or 2nd from right (can vary)
```

```
MC:   3rd from left (can vary)
_TH:  Middle two boxes on the right path
*TM:  Right path, left box
_SGF: Left box
```

```
SA:  4th from left
*DS: -
ED:  Left box
MW:  2nd from right
```

```
_CC: Right or 2nd from right
BDD: 2nd from right (swing wide for 2nd place box)
BC:  Middle and 2nd from left (hit both)
RR:  Rightmost or 2nd from right (seems 50/50)
```

### **RETRO TRACKS**

```
*rMMM: 2nd from the left (hit it in 2nd place)
*rMC:  -
rCCB:  Right box
_rTT:  Get two boxes
```

```
rDDD: 2nd from right
rDP3: Two boxes first set
rRRy: 2nd from left (can vary)
rDKJ: 2nd from right (can vary)
```

```
rWS:  Left box
*rSL: 2nd from right (can vary)
rMP:  Right box
rYV:  3rd from left (can vary)
```

```
_rTTC: -
rPPS:  Get two boxes
rGV:   2nd from right or middle (varies). Don't get bumped off!
rRR:   3rd from right
```

### **BONUS TRACKS**

```
dYC:  Right box
dEA:  - (completely random, can try to look back and predict)
dDD:  Middle box (double item)
_dMC: -
```

```
*dWGM: Both middle and 2nd from left
dRR:   Right box
_dIIO: 2nd from the left OR 3rd from the right (50/50)
dHC:   Left box
```

```
*dBP: Two boxes at the start of lap 3 (risky) or right at the first turn (safe)
dCL:  Left box
_dWW: 2nd from right (very random still)
dAC:  Middle and 2nd from left (hit both)
```

```
dNBC:  Right box (can vary)
dRiR:  2nd from right
_dSBS: Slow down for a 2nd place box
_dBB:  Two leftmost boxes (hit both)
```

### **Additional Notes**

```
*WP: alternatively, it's safer to slow down for a 2nd place box, but CPUs often wait to throw reds until you're nearly at the second set anyway
```

```
*TM: the CPU has a roughly 50/50 chance of going left or right at the start, so this isn't a guarantee
```

```
*DS: with the increased box respawn rate from version 2.1 onwards, the CPU is slow enough that the box will respawn by the time they get to it :(
```

```
*rMMM: the fastest CPU almost always zooms ahead and passes you before the first set. Hacks...
```

```
*rMC: like DS, the box will respawn before CPU gets to it
```

```
*dWGM: any of the middle three boxes seem about equally likely, and unfortunately you can only hit two
```

```
*dBP: moving item boxes are unlinked, so if you hit both in a pair you'll get two items
```

```
_TR: CPUs will almost never throw reds before you get protection from the second set if you drive well
```

```
_TH: same as TR
```

```
_SGF: you can outrun to the second set (I recommend holding a coin if you get it to guarantee protection; the second set has double boxes, but they're very awkward to get)
```

```
_CC: you can outrun to the second set
```

```
_rTT: you can easily outrun reds and blues on this track with neutral drifting. Also, CPUs don't hit many boxes, and reds can break on vehicles
```

```
_rTTC: you can outrun reds to the second set, CPUs often wait to throw reds until you're nearly at the second set, and pendulums can break reds
```

```
_dMC: you can outrun reds everywhere except the u-turn, and you'll be far enough ahead of 2nd place that the box will respawn by the time the CPU hits it anyway
```

```
_dIIO: you can usually outrun to the second set (not by much though). It's random which path the CPU takes anyway
```

```
_dWW: the CPU lines are so random that I find it's best to just drive forward. You can mostly outrun reds, and CPUs usually wait a bit to throw them
```

```
_dSBS: you can outrun to the second set, and CPUs usually won't throw reds before you get there
```

```
_dBB: you can outrun to the second set
```

I hope this helps item categories feel a tiny bit more consistent!

—Pianist15

*9/2/23 update: reformatted to comply with the site update; condensed all relevant 200cc information to here. I'm planning to add DLC tracks eventually, although it will probably be a while.*

Advanced Techniques

**Difficulty ratings:**
! = Very Easy. Only conscious thought required to execute
!! = Easy. Basic, straightforward execution
!!! = Fairly Difficult. Practice required
!!!! = Very Difficult. Extensive practice required

Note 1: Firehopping (and related tech) doesn’t work in MK8DX. It is only possible in MK8U.

Note 2: I generally tried to order tech by difficulty, but soft-drifting is so important that I felt the need to explain it first and in the greatest detail, at the very least to educate people. If it’s a bit much to take in or execute at first, don’t worry. The techniques directly after are much easier and require less explanation. Now you at least know soft-drifting exists, which was my goal!

**!!-!!!! Soft-drifting:** Hold the control stick at approximately 30-40 degrees above or below horizontal (in the direction of the drift) while in a drift. By doing this, you turn as little as possible while still charging an MT (mini-turbo) at the maximum rate. 
	This is the most efficient method of charging an MT, although "efficient" is not quite the same as "fastest"! There are exactly *two* different mini-turbo charging rates: slow and fast. If the control stick is held opposite the direction of the turn, left neutral, or even pushed slightly in the direction of the turn, MTs will charge slowly. If you hold the control stick far in the direction of the drift, mini-turbos will charge quickly. 
	The result of this is that there are a variety of turning angles that charge MTs at the same speed but lead to different lines. Here we're interested in the entire zone where MTs charge quickly. This zone extends almost 45 degrees above and below the left-right line. Soft-drifting refers to holding an angle very near the edge of the zone (or roughly around a "2-o'clock" or "4-o'clock" position for a right drift if you picture the circle as a face of a clock); with this angle, you manipulate this zone to turn as little as possible (at the “softest” angle) while still charging MTs at the maximum rate. 
	Soft-drifting allows you to charge MTs that would be impossible to achieve with just full left/right inputs. It prevents you from wiggling the stick back and forth quite as much. It helps you take better lines on shallow turns and straightaways because you aren’t turning as much. It isn’t faster on EVERY turn—sometimes it’s not necessary, or holding hard right or left gives you a tighter line around a sharp corner. With that said, once you know how to spot it, you’ll see it everywhere in top-level play. 
	Soft-drifting is rated !! because it’s relatively straightforward to execute, and it’s rated !!!! because many of the MT strats that stem from it are extremely difficult. Mastering soft-drifting is essential to mastering the game.
**For more info on soft-drifting and drifting in general, along with helpful visuals, see Vike's Guide to Drifting** https://vikemk.com/drifting-guide

**! Choosing the Animal Crossing season:** Hold down one of the shoulder buttons while selecting the first track. Each button corresponds to a different season:
L = Spring (ramps on beginning section)
R = Summer (same as time trials: ramp on the beach section)
ZL = Fall (no ramps)
ZR = Winter (icy, low-traction ground)
Summer (R) is generally considered the fastest season on both 150cc and 200cc, although Fall is easier for 200cc for most people. Just don’t choose Winter, ever. Please. For your own sake!

**! Quick Cannon:** Before glider cannons like on Sweet Sweet Canyon and Sunshine Airport, hop before the blue ramp so you land on the middle/end of it (don't trick). This lets you enter the cannon slightly sooner and saves ~.1 each time you pull it off. It's easiest to tell if you got it from the controller vibration. I'm not exactly sure how to describe it, but over time you can easily learn to recognize it.

**! Not tricking:** Tricking is almost always a good idea, but there are three scenarios where you should *not* trick off of ramps.
1) When you’re in the middle of a UMT (ultra mini-turbo) boost, it's generally best not to trick on glider ramps. Like glider cannons, they set your speed to a set value before giving you a boost, and in these situations it’s faster to just be propelled by your MT. Often there are other nuances you can implement such as hopping onto the ramp instead or pressing R just after passing the ramp to get a low glider and save a little time, too (see "Low Glider").
2) When you should glider vector (see "Glider Vectoring") instead—most applicable on 150cc.
3) When the turn after the trick is too tight and you don't want extra speed—most applicable on 200cc. For example, the second ramp of Bowser's Castle on both 150cc and 200cc leads to a very tight corner. You should start a drift on the edge of the ramp instead of tricking (this is generally a good idea when you don't trick).

**!! Getting good coins:** Not exactly tech, but still VERY important!!! The difference between 0 and 10 coins is equivalent to 5 bars of speed in the in-game stats menu, which is nearly the difference between the heaviest and slowest combos in the game. Learning the correct coin routes for each course is critical once you know basic lines. Watch time trial WRs or top speedruns to learn details. Note that coins do not respawn in time trials, but they do in every other game mode. This can lead to slight differences between TTs and longer speedruns.

**!-!! Hopping left or right:** Tap R and hold a direction while in the air to change your alignment significantly. This can be used to correct or manipulate your alignment in various circumstances. Be sure to only tap R—you'll start drifting if you're still holding it when you hit the ground. This doesn’t work with inside-drifting bikes.

**!! Counterhopping:** Hopping in the opposite direction before a turn can allow you to charge a mini-turbo more easily once you start a drift from the next hop. This is something that some advanced MT strats take advantage of; it is NOT tech you should use on every turn. 

**!! Hard-drifting:** Holding fully left or fully right in the direction of a drift. This charges MTs at the same speed as soft-drifting and is less efficient in terms of amount of MT charged per amount turned, but it allows you to make tighter turns, which can sometimes be more important than charging MTs.

**!! Delayed Drift:** Press R to hop with the control stick in a neutral position, then don't push the stick into the desired direction of your drift until just before you hit the ground. This can improve your lines in some places by allowing you to hold into the turn more to charge MTs slightly faster at the start of your drift. This isn’t *always* faster, but it often is.

**!! Slip Drift:** While in the air from a jump or an air pocket, press R and hold the direction you want to drift. When you hit the ground you will immediately begin a drift without having to hop. 

**!!-!!! Low Trick:** In general, you slow down whenever you're airborne, so it's desirable to minimize air-time. Along with that, there’s actually a pretty large window to trick off of ramps, and tricking early in that window will usually give you less airtime than tricking late. In some specific situations, doing other things like hopping before a ramp or going off a ramp and an angle can give you low tricks too. Watch top-level runs to get an idea of some of these more advanced applications (for example, the last trick of Sherbet Land on 200cc).

**!! Up/Down Underwater Tricks:** Holding a direction on the control stick while tricking gives a different trick animation depending on the direction. Normally this is just a visual thing and doesn't affect your speed, but *holding up or down while tricking underwater delays the boost until the flip is completely done, which is significantly faster in most underwater sections* (especially the underwater ramp in Piranha Plant Slide on 150cc and most of the ramps on Dolphin Shoals). This is because trick boosts while grounded are much stronger than trick boosts while airborne underwater (waterborne? Not sure if that's the right word for it XD), so it's best to delay the boost until you've landed. Up is usually the best option because it pushes you down to land faster.

**!!! Neutral Hopping:** Precise NISCs (no-item shortcuts) often require you to have the control stick completely neutral when you initially jump over the off-road. Doing so ensures that you have maximum forward momentum and no unhelpful sideways movement.

**!!! Super-bounce:** Before a bounce pad, charge a mini-turbo off the preceding ramp, then release the MT just before tricking. You should fly forward significantly farther than normal. For 150cc at least, I recommend learning this tech on rDKJ first, and then you can apply it to the first bounce pad of Cloudtop Cruise and later to both of Music Park's. [Here's a tutorial by Bayesic](https://youtu.be/0vtWI1_1_0Q?t=83) with an overview of the execution.

**!!! Chaining:** Timing boosts so one starts just as the next one ends. This saves time because it keeps your kart at the highest speed for the longest amount of time possible. If you don't chain, then some of your time in a boost is spent accelerating back to top speed. Each chain only saves a small amount of time, so it's not worth thinking about this until you have learned strats very well, but at the top level it's a fairly easy and important thing to be aware of.
With that said, boosts don't usually stack in this game, so also be careful to avoid what I've heard some people call "boost cannibalization". If you get a boost while another is already active, the overlap will waste some of both. Chaining is about finding the perfect timing where you don't lose time from overlapping boosts *or* having to re-accelerate.
This (obviously) isn't MKW, but if you're familiar with wheelie chaining in that game, that's an extreme, easy-to-see example of this same principle that might help you understand why chaining is fast in general.

**!!-!!!! Glider Vectoring:** On many tracks, especially on 150cc, tricking off glider ramps is very slow. Instead, it's faster to drift off a glider ramp, release an MT while angled sideways, then, once you've sunk down a little bit, hold roughly 45 degrees down on the control stick to move up and sideways back towards the track through the air. 
	On other glider ramps, such as Twisted Mansion, Bowser's Castle, and a few others, vectoring off of UMTs (ultra mini-turbos) is so powerful that it's worth it to hold a drift and bump against the wall to charge one up, which is then released similarly to an MT.
	Why is this faster? First, the boost from an MT is slightly more powerful than a trick in this game. This is only a small part of why this technique save so much time, though; the angle you hold in the glider is crucial. Forcing your vehicle up and sideways simultaneously results in a somewhat unintuitive speed boost. This is thought to happen because speed is capped along each axis, but you can surpass this one-dimensional speed cap if you're moving at very high forwards, up, and sideways speeds all at once. This is a fairly common oversight in games; for example, vectoring is also possible in [SMO](https://youtu.be/LX7aZ2W7laE) and [Subnautica](https://www.reddit.com/r/subnautica/comments/3hsex7) , just to name a few. Bayesic also made [a great video guide](https://youtu.be/5bDd9ssou10) for this which also includes a tutorial for motion glider (which isn't covered in this guide because it's not relevant for RTA speedruns).

**!!-!!! Low glider:** When you go off of glider ramps, pressing R/ZR again just after the glider comes out makes you get less air and sink faster. This is incredibly powerful when combined with glider vectoring because allows you to get into position to hold the vectoring angle more quickly. Press R just after the MT releases, and you'll be able to hold a better angle sooner. 
	Being good with this technique requires a lot of intuition, and it's hard to spot if you don't know it's there. So, to first start I recommend watching a good 150cc WR speedrun (keeping an eye out on courses like Water Park, Twisted Mansion, Sunshine Airport, and Royal Raceway - there are other instances, too, which you should be able to spot better after watching those).

**!!!! Neutral Drifting:** As I explained in the soft-drifting section, there are two speeds a mini-turbo can charge at: quickly (hard-drifting and soft-drifting) and slowly (every other angle). **Neutral drifting generally refers to keeping your control stick in the slow-charging zone** (not necessarily keeping the control stick completely neutral, although sometimes it can also refer to that. It can be a bit confusing, but that's just how the term is used). Charging quickly actually slows you down a little, especially on 200cc. This has several implications:
	First of all, on 200cc there are a few specific cases where it's slightly faster to hold a neutral or more shallow angle on an entire turn rather than charging up the next MT level. For example, on the turn after the glider on Cheep Cheep Beach, you should only charge an MT. As far as I know, this is *never* the case on 150cc, where the speed penalty of hard drifting is barely noticeable and never outweighs the benefit of charging the next MT level.
	Secondly (and much more generally), the fastest way to charge MTs (especially on 200cc, but also on 150cc) is to save some of the soft/hard drifting for the end of the drift, rather than wiggling throughout. There are even some courses like Moo Moo Meadows that contain many corners that should be approached early and wide so you can neutral drift throughout them entirely.
	Finally, for items runs, neutral drifting can allow you to maintain enough speed to outrun blue shells and red shells on certain courses. [Here's a MarioKartCentral thread](https://www.mariokartcentral.com/forums/index.php?threads/200cc-blue-shell-outrun-poof-guide.12184/) that breaks down track-specific strats in excruciating detail.
	Overall, this is a quite advanced concept, and I don't recommend thinking about this much until your lines and MTs are solidly consistent overall.

**!! Random coin info:** Collecting a coin gives you a slight boost, even when you already have 10 coins. Air speed (which refers to gliding, not hopping or going off ramps) is unaffected by coins and is faster until you have around 5-8 coins (exact number depends on your combo). 1 coin increases your speed by 2 levels (equivalent to 0.5 bars on the in-game combo selection screen), and having 10 coins makes you around 6.6% faster (which is a huge difference).

This is not a comprehensive list of all tech, but it's everything I know of that shows up in multiple courses. If you have a track-specific question, join the Discord and feel free to ask someone there!

**LINKS EMBEDDED IN THE GUIDE:**
- Vike's Guide to Drifting: https://vikemk.com/drifting-guide
- Glider Vectoring Tutorial: https://youtu.be/5bDd9ssou10
- DK Jungle Superbounce tutorial: https://youtu.be/0vtWI1_1_0Q?t=83
- Blue Shell Outruns: https://www.mariokartcentral.com/forums/index.php?threads/200cc-blue-shell-outrun-poof-guide.12184/

Edit (2/15/20): Added techniques I’ve become more familiar with over the past few months. I also heavily edited existing explanations for clarity and ease of reading.
Edit (8/1/20): Added glider vectoring, low gliders, and neutral stick drifting, as well as clarifying coin info.
Edit (6/11/22): Further clarified terms and descriptions throughout the document.

Kart Building Guide

See the resources page for a website with stat info for all kart parts that you can experiment with yourself. (Including mini-turbo and invincibility stat info, which are hidden in-game.)

***As of version 2.3.0 (Wave 4 of the BCP), the optimal combo for speedruns is Teddy Buggy/Rollers/Paper Glider, using Yoshi for 150cc and Yoshi or Luigi for 200cc.***

Yoshi = Birdo = Daisy = Peach; Luigi = Iggy = Kamek; Teddy Buggy = Cat Cruiser; Roller = Azure Roller; Paper = Cloud = Flower = Parachute Glider

The mini-turbo stat was buffed for MK8DX compared to the original MK8, giving more boost for a longer duration overall. The mechanics of the stat itself were also changed such that it also affects the speed with which mini-turbos charge and the length and power of the boost. In addition, fire-hopping and other related tech from MK8 don't work in this game, increasing the impact of mini-turbos. This means that, while having a high base speed is still crucial, it is now much more important to temper pure speed with lots of mini-turbo.

Nintendo has added balance patches with each wave of the booster course pass, changing how weight works, adding a hidden invincibility stat, and buffing characters and vehicles they deemed underused. These buffs changed the meta from Waluigi with Biddybuggy (unchanged stats) to Yoshi/Luigi with Teddy buggy (all heavily buffed). The new meta is statistically superior to the old meta in every way.

While this build is usually the best, there are definitely situations where other combos stand out. I’ll list and address as many as I can think of:

1. Beginners. Edit for 2.3.0+: The meta combo is now even more beginner-friendly! Note that Yoshi is easier to use than Luigi on 200cc due to higher handling and mini-turbo. 

2. Items runs. Since items can stop you or even just slow you by blocking your usual route, it is arguably important to build more acceleration, handling, and invincibility into combos for items runs. However, Yoshi/Teddy has enough acceleration and handling that it stands out as the best for even item runs. Picking a baby character, for example, would lose significantly more time due to its poor top speed than it gained due to its increased acceleration. The only exception I know of is the possibility of replacing rollers with GLA tires on 150cc, which gains +1.00 invincibility and a bit of speed at the cost of -0.50 mini-turbo. 

3. Some individual cups or track sets. The Yoshi/Teddy build provides a general solution to all tracks, but characteristics of some cups or track groups can call for a different approach. For example, with many high-traction parts receiving buffs throughout the BCP, the prevalence of slippery terrain in the Banana and Cherry cups means Streetle is a viable choice for those cups. Meanwhile, the Egg cup has lots of courses with anti-gravity sections, so Leaf Tires compete with Rollers here (this is a niche choice, though; Rollers are almost always better than Leaf).

Finally,

4. Time trials. Speedrun.com doesn’t keep track of this aspect of the game (check Resources for a link to a site that does), but individual tracks provide a chance to meticulously optimize, which leads to a much higher pool of viable builds than full-game speedruns. If you want to know what the best of the best use, then you should check out the world record ghosts available through the in-game time trial menu and on the MK8DX Records YouTube channel. 

At the end of the day, GOOD DRIVING is still the single most important factor for going fast! The game is more balanced than ever, and you can go very far without using the single optimal combo. Practice and experience trumps a Pareto optimal combo any day of the week.

Good luck on your runs!

—Pianist15

Very Basic Techniques: A Guide for Beginners

Very Basic Skills*

These actions are simple to perform, but they'll take you far. Take your time mastering these before learning advanced tech, which is much more difficult and saves much less time than simple practice and improvement of the basics.

Start-up Boost: To get the maximum possible boost at the start of a race, hold A or Y when the beep for 2 sounds (for a visual cue, do it right as the 2 fully fades in). Any earlier and you’ll burn out (very bad); any later and the boost will be weaker (just a little bad).

Drift: While holding A/Y, press and hold R/ZR and hold left or right on the control stick (depending on the direction you want to drift). When drifting, you can move the control stick fully left or right for minor steering adjustments.

Mini-turbo (MT): Hold R/ZR to drift until blue sparks appear behind your rear wheel(s). Release R/ZR to get a boost.

Super and Ultra Mini-Turbos (SMT/UMT): Instead of releasing the drift once blue sparks appear, hold it until the sparks turn orange and release for a larger boost, or hold it even longer for a huge boost from purple sparks.

Tricks (a.k.a. Jump Boosts): Press R/ZR or shake the controller right before jumping over a ramp, bounce pad, or similar object. Be conservative with these at first in 200cc - too much speed can be hard to control.

Brake Drifting: On extremely tight turns, tap or hold B while drifting (and still holding A/Y) to slow yourself down and take a tighter line without completely stopping or losing the drift. Especially useful on 200cc. (Be careful not to hold B for too long, or you’ll slow down too much and lose your drift.)

Rearview camera: Hold X. This isn't technically needed for driving fast, but it can help you track other drivers, see how close red shells are, etc.

Not falling off: Drive well. Smart Steering is allowed, but I don't recommend using it. Once you’re good enough it just hinders you anyway.

*Visualizations and additional descriptions of most of these techniques can be found from the in-game main menu: Info >> Driving Techniques.

Pianist15

Mario Kart 8 Deluxe

Switch

Isuckatgaming2472

YellowNori

serboss

Mushroom Cup

Flower Cup

Star Cup

Special Cup

Shell Cup

Banana Cup

Leaf Cup

Lightning Cup

Egg Cup

Triforce Cup

Crossing Cup

Bell Cup

Items

No Items

150cc

200cc

Cartridge

Digital

Golden Dash Cup

Lucky Cat Cup

Turnip Cup

Propeller Cup

Waves 1+2

Rock Cup

Moon Cup

Fruit Cup

Boomerang Cup

Waves 3+4

Pre-2.3.0

2.3.0+

Feather Cup

Cherry Cup

Acorn Cup

Spiny Cup

Waves 5+6

No Breaks

Breaks

Nintendo Switch

Nintendo Switch 2

Individual Cup

Version

Waves:

Patch Number

No Breaks = timer was never paused, Breaks = took breaks according to the ruleset

ALL RUNS THAT REQUIRE VIDEO PROOF MUST SHOW THE SWITCH / SWITCH 2 HOME SCREEN

Platform

Hi all, we just implemented a few minor rules changes and restructured the rules for clarity. Here are the highlights:

1. **We no longer consider Twitch Highlights to be adequate video proof**. We feel this change is necessary given Twitch's decision several months ago to limit highlights to 100 ho

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